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" "Most of my work is made of red maple saplings and twigs, with beech, oak, cherry, sourwood, alder and other hardwoods making an appearance occasionally. Strong mortise and tenon joinery is the primary structural method, with all rungs and stretchers kiln dried. Dowels, pegs, bronze nails, and screws may be used to attach small pieces and enhance structural integrity.

  • Trees for peeled work are cut in the spring and early summer when the sap is flowing and bark slips off cleanly. To retain the bark, I cut wood in the winter when  the sap is “down” and adhesion is greatest.
  • A blend of oil and varnish provides a finish requiring only damp wiping to clean.  Orange oil and similar furniture polishes as well as wax will also enhance the sheen and help prevent the bark from drying too much.
  • Table tops are usually finished with varnish to build up a more wear resistant surface.
  • Cotton Shaker tape woven chair seats are cushioned with foam for comfort.
  • Maple is not known for decay resistance, so my work is recommended for indoor use unless a weather resistant finish is requested on commission. Then a covered porch should provide enough protection if the finish is maintained and exposure is limited.

Although I often have a few pieces on hand, what’s available from my studio is always changing. Since my pieces are one-of-a-kind works carefully designed and crafted by hand, only a limited number can be produced each year.

I always welcome commissions, so please look over my portfolio and think about what attracts you most.

Contact me for images of works-in-progress, larger versions of portfolio pictures, or to discuss a new work for your own unique place.

Treated as you would any fine furniture, these pieces should last indefinitely. They may even become heirlooms or tomorrow’s antiques.